The skin is the largest organ of our body and it is exposed to the exposoma, which is the union of all external aggressions: sun radiation, pollution, temperature changes, humidity changes...
The skin is covered by millions of micro-organisms that create a microbiological barrier called microbiota. Each skin square centimetre contains more than a million of micro-organisms of different strains and nature. Skin microbiota is formed by bacteria, virus, fungi, yeasts and parasites, all of them forming a complex ecosystem that is constantly interacting with the skin and the environment.
Skin microbiota is a very complex ecosystem with several functions, but its main role is to protect the skin and regulate its immune and regenerative systems. We can say that skin microbiota is the first defensive system, through the touch, acting as a guard that alerts the rest of the skin defensive organs if it is necessary (sebaceous gland, melanocyte, defensive cells...).
Microbiota is the first protective barrier and it leaves no space for germs or pathogenic agents. When a germ or pathogenic agent tries to penetrate into our organism through the epidermis, several defence mechanisms are activated:
1- Microbiota bacteria synthesise bacteriocines. They are specific toxic substances destined to kill other damaging bacteria from threatening strains.
2- Epidermis cells synthesise antimicrobial peptides and lipids.
3- Sweat from perspiration glands has enzymes that destroy the walls of the bacteria cells.
4- The sum of the skin secretions gives the skin a more acid pH, which prevents the development of skin pathogenic agents.
Main Active Substances:
1. PREBIOTICS:
Prebiotics are active substances, almost always sourced from biotechnological-processed natural fermentations, whose main role is feed and condition the ecosystem where bacteria are developed. These bacteria form the skin microbiota, which is key to the skin health and balance, as we have already explained.
They can regenerate the natural flora of our skin, in order to recover and balance it in a quick and efficient way. So they are cutting-edge active substances essential to treat every skin type, especially the most delicate, sensitive and intolerant ones.
2. ACTIBIOME PE:
It is a patented active ingredient that nourishes, strengthens and balances the biodiversity and homoeostasis of the skin microbiota.
Many studies have shown that ACTIBIOME PE balances skin pH in those skins affected by microbiota changes and reduces skin redness produced by inflammation.
The regular use of Actibiome PE prevents the entrance of some damaging bacteria that try to colonise our skin.
3. NIACINAMIDE:
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is one active form of vitamin B3 or niacin. Vitamin B3 is essential for the good functioning of our body and it is sourced from food.
In skin cosmetics, it has lots of advantages. It is a water-soluble, stable molecule, so it can be found in watery serums or creams that are pleasant when touched. It has a great penetration capacity at a neutral pH, so it doesn’t irritate.
Niacinamide is a necessary component for the activation of the coenzyme NAD, which is key in the synthesis of ATP (the energy molecule).
The levels of NAD decrease with time, so it is very important to provide an extra dose.
4. BAKUCHIOL:
Bakuchiol is a monoterpene founded mainly in the leguminous plant Psoralea corylifolia (also known by its common name Babchi).
This plant contains other active substances such as psoralens, with great dermatological interest to treat diseases as psoriasis or vitiligo.
It is also known as the vegan retinol, and it has been used for decades in the traditional Chinese and Indian medicines.
Although it is not a retinoid, and hasn't got so many studies as these ones, it has been proved that it has similar results, but with the advantage of bakuchiol being better tolerated.
5. DMAE:
Dimethylethanolamine or DMAE is a compound developed by our brain and our body. It is used in many neurological processes where memory or movement are involved.
Regarding the skin, DMAE acts inhibiting muscular contractions, as it is a precursor of acetylcholine, an active substance that inhibits the stimulus that creates nervous impulses. The continued topic use of this active substance promotes muscular stretching and skin smoothness.
DMAE can also retain water in the connective tissues, thus refilling wrinkles.
Age blemishes, as well as hepatic, drugs or metabolic blemishes, answer very well as it can reduce the deposits of lipofuscin or toxins inside skin cells.
DMAE, on the other hand, can eliminate and neutralise free radicals: therefore, it is a great antioxidant substance.
6. Crithmum Maritimun Extract:
It is an active substance obtained from marine fennel, a coastal plant (more common in the North Sea). Fishermen used to pick and eat this plant during their long trips, as it is very rich in vitamin C and minerals.
7. Undaria Pinnatifida:
Brown micro-seaweed whose fertile bases have a serum rich in the spores responsible of the reproduction of the species.
This serum is known as a “life concentrate”, as it reactivates 14 genes involved in the restructuration and redensification of the dermis extracellular matrix, increasing the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. So it is a regenerative active substance.
Skin will look firm, soft and with less wrinkles.
8. Jania Rubens Extract:
Very common in the Mediterranean sea, this is a red seaweed.
This active ingredient gives hydration and regeneration thanks to its high content of trace elements and minerals; in fact, its concentration is 20,000 to 40,000 times more than sea water, so it is a great partner in the creation of collagen and elastin.
9. Ginkgo Biloba:
Millennia-old plant from whose roots an extract is obtained that improves blood flow, thus very efficiently contributing to solving redness and couperose problems.
10. African Kigelia:
It fights flaccidity. It activates micro-circulation and maintains the skin integrity thanks to its anti-elastase action, which blocks the enzyme that breaks proteins. Immediate tautness and firming effect.
11. Kombucha (Fermented black tea):
Kombucha tea has been used in Chinese traditional medicine for millenniums, thanks to its great purifying, invigorating and antioxidant properties.
It also improves the immune system and prevents skin problems, so it is known as “immortality tea”.
It has great anti-wrinkles properties, as it increases the number of adipocytes of the dermal cells and stimulates their differentiation.
It also gives volume and density to dull areas and softens expression lines.
12. Moringa:
Moringa is famous all around the world as a “super-plant”. This is mainly because it has plenty of benefits, both for our health and our beauty.
Is is anti-inflammatory and antiseptic, so it is perfect for irritated or sensitive skins.
It has 46 different antioxidants and is a great source of vitamins E and A: that is why it is great to combat free radicals that destroy collagen fibres.
13. Fermented essential oils:
A fermented oil is an oil obtained by microbiological metabolism: fermentation is linked to an overproduction of bioactive molecules, with benefits for our health: antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant properties, it can even regulate hypersensitivity, balance and strength microbiota and the immune system.
1. Argan oil: Regenerative
2. Olive oil: Nourishing
3. Sunflower oil: Strengthens the skin barrier
4. Angelica oil: Toning
5. Liquorice oil: Depigmentant
6. Zacao oil: Anti-inflammatory
