Main Active Substances:

In FR~HAUT EXOTECH we use Goji seed stem cells (PHYTOCELLTEC™ Goji) and Houttuynia Cordata; both ingredients have optimal results in skin regeneration, as well as in the normalisation of the skin cellular metabolism.
These exosomes are natural, non-synthetic, and plant-based.

The exosomes used in EXOTECH, have been awarded with the 2019 PSB Innovation Awards Cosmetics.

1. PHYTOCELLTEC™ GOJI
(Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract, Isomalt, Lecithin and aqua/water)
Lycium barbarum callus culture extract
A deciduous shrub native to Southeast Europe and Asia that has been valued for centuries because of its nutritional and therapeutic properties.
Its fruits, known as goji berries, are considered “superfruits” thanks to their high concentration of antioxidants, vitamins and bioactive compounds, which makes them a functional food with multiple health benefits.

According to an ancient legend, a Buddhist monk discovered these berries and by regularly incorporating them into the diet, he and those who consumed them achieved significantly greater longevity than the rest of the population.
Today, beyond its historical and nutritional value, recent studies have shown that goji has the ability to stimulate stem cells, an aspect of great importance in the field of regenerative biotechnology. This feature is closely related with current advances in the use of exosomes, as both contribute to optimizing cellular communication and regeneration processes, key basis of modern cosmetic biohacking.

2. HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA
It is a perennial herb from a large family with more than 300 species, and it grows particularly well in humid environments.
Well-known in oriental medicine, this plant has been used because of its detoxifying and diuretic properties, as it improves the removal of toxins and the reduction of fever.
The exosomes of Houttuynia cordata (heart leaves) have been shown to be effective to treat several dermatological problems such as eczema, wounds, skin infections and inflammatory skin problems.
Excellent soothing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Its high content of polysaccharides helps maintain skin hydration and protection from damages, including the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, and the exposome in general.

3. JANIA RUBENS EXOSOMES (RED ALGAE)
They are nanoscale vesicles containing messenger RNA peptides, amino acids and lipids that act as transmitters to enhance and restore the communication of cellular activity, enhance cellular regeneration and delay ageing. It has been shown that they exponentially increase the percentage of collagen and elastin production by fibroblasts, improving intercellular communication and ATP synthesis, so that the cellular organism works in synergy, avoiding the slowing down of the metabolism generated by the passage of time.
- Improvement in elasticity and firmness
- Reduction of the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
- Prevention of oxidation and structure glycations.

MECHANISM OF ACTION OF PHYTOCELLTEC™ GOJI + HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA

It has been shown that PhytoCellTec™ Goji + Houttuynia Cordata stimulates and rejuvenates mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), optimizing their biological functionality.
When activated by the messenger molecules, MSCs significantly increase the release of exosomes, which enhances intercellular communication and tissue regeneration.

This process triggers key benefits on the skin:

• Stimulation of fibroblasts, which leads to an increase in collagen and elastin production.
• Strengthening of dermal structure and improvement of skin density.
• Differentiation of MSCs into adipocytes, contributing to the filling effect from the inside, restoring the volume and firmness lost with ageing.
• Plant synergy that acts as a biological catalyst to improve the quality, firmness and vitality of the skin from the deepest layers.
Findings:
In vivo results and effects at the cellular level

Tests conducted with PhytoCellTec Goji™ in combination with houttuynia cordata (heart leaves) have shown visible and measurable results in improving facial firmness and contour, as well as regenerative effects:
• Reduction of facial sagging, with visibly firmer and toned skin.
• Improvemnt of the definition of the jawline, favouring the recovery of the "V" shape of the face, associated with a more youthful appearance.
• Breast lifting effect, with a visible improvement in skin stretching and elevation.
• Increased expression of stem cell-specific markers in aged mesenchymal stem cells, which indicates a functional restoration.

PhytoCellTec™ Goji has been shown to be able to rejuvenate mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), helping them to restore and maintain their pluripotency, which promotes cell regeneration and contributes to visibly denser, elastic and revitalized skin from the inside.

Quantification methods revealed that treatment with stem cell extract of PhytoCellTec™ Goji + houttuynia cordata causes an increase in the production of exosomes by MSCs.
In addition, this active combination has been shown to improve intercellular communication between mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and fibroblasts, thereby enhancing the processes of regeneration, repair and synthesis of dermal key components.
The complex PhytoCellTec™ Goji + houttuynia Cordata has shown a significant action at the genetic and cellular level, improving the skin structure:

• Increase in the gene expression of type III and type XVI collagen, of key importance for the organization and resistance of the extracellular matrix.
• Increased elastin expression, key to skin elasticity and flexibility.
• Stimulation of PLOD1, an essential enzyme for collagen maturation, which promotes its stability and functionality.
• Increased expression of LOX (Lysyl oxidase), an enzyme responsible for cross-linking collagen and elastin fibres, promoting a more stable and elastic dermal matrix.

SKIN MICROBIOME
The skin is covered by millions of microorganisms that form a microbiological barrier called the microbiota.

The skin microbiota is a very complex ecosystem that has several functions, but the main one is to defend the skin and regulate its immune and regenerative systems. We could say that the skin microbiota is the first defensive system, through touch, and that it behaves as a sentinel, alerting the rest of the skin's defensive organs if necessary (sebaceous gland, melanocyte, defensive cells, etc.).

This microbiota is essential for the health of the skin, it is very fragile and can deteriorate progressively depending on lifestyle (personal hygiene, skincare routine, stress, diet…).

An alteration in the microbiota can lead to dysfunctions:

• Problems in the skin defensive system.
• Colonisation of bacteria different from the microbiota (infections).
• Problems in tissue regeneration.
• Sensitivity, weakness of the immune system.

POST & PREBIOTICS are active ingredients that support bacterial activity and offer a safe and effective way to improve skin health by interacting with the microbiome, without introducing live microorganisms. They are a key innovation in cosmetics that seeks a more holistic approach to skincare.

PREBIOTICS

Prebiotics are the food for the bacteria that confer the microbiota of our skin. They are compounds that help fertilize the skin and serve as substrate and nutrients for beneficial bacteria, thus restoring balance and, consequently, preventing the appearance of skin problems and even ageing or sensitivity.

The prebiotics used in EXOTECH are almost always from fermentations of marine bacteria (PLANKTON EXTRACT) processed by biotechnology. Their function is to feed and condition the ecosystem where the bacteria that make up the skin microbiota grow, which is of vital importance for the health and balance of the skin, as we have seen before.

They can regenerate the natural flora of our skin, to recover and balance it quickly and effectively. Therefore, they are state-of-the-art active ingredients essential for treating all skin types, but especially the most delicate, sensitive and intolerant ones.

PLANKTON EXTRACT of Baru
Bioluminescent plankton that protects the skin's microbiota and can also stimulate all the mechanisms of regeneration of skin fibres and proteins.

According to many scientific studies, marine plankton helps strengthen the skin barrier and resistance, promoting environmental conditions for the proliferation and settlement of the microbiota.

Plankton contains macromolecules of carbohydrates and proteins, highly valued for their role in intercellular communication and their protective properties against environmental stress. It maintains stable environmental conditions as it protects bacteria from drying out.

POSTBIOTICS

These are waste products or non-viable (inactive) components that result from the activity of beneficial microorganisms, probiotics, or their fermentation.
In other words, they are chemical signals or debris produced by bacteria that have direct beneficial effects on the skin, as they condition the substrate where the skin microbiome must grow and develop.

Postbiotics offer several important benefits for the skin by working in harmony with the skin microbiome to improve its health and appearance:

1. Care for and protect the skin barrier: they help the skin produce key components such as lipids and ceramides, essential for maintaining a strong skin barrier that prevents dryness, irritation and lack of water. They also produce bacteriocins, which are considered the most efficient postbiotics used by the skin to fight infections.

2. Reduce inflammation and soothe the skin: they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help relieve redness, irritation and discomfort, being beneficial for sensitive skins or those with conditions such as eczema or dermatitis.

3. Balance the skin microbiome: although they are not live bacteria, postbiotics act as messengers that guide the resident microbiota to behave properly, promoting a healthy environment and preventing the growth of harmful bacteria.

4. Promote cell regeneration: they contribute to the regeneration of damaged skin and to the overall skin health.

5. Hydrate and improve skin texture: they can improve the skin's assimilation of nutrients and contribute to a longer-lasting hydration and a smoother texture.

Postbiotics used in EXOTECH by FR~HAUT are:

RHODOPHYCEAE
It is a seaweed that acts as a prebiotic and postbiotic agent. It is very interesting for the cosmetic industry because it produces a wide range of primary metabolites, such as unsaturated fatty acids, polysaccharides, vitamins and essential amino acids, in addition to some secondary metabolites, such as phenolic compounds, terpenes, halogen compounds and carotenoids, which have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anticancer, antibacterial and anti-ageing properties.
All these substances help feed the microbiota (prebiotics) and improve the substrate where it is implanted (postbiotics).

SEAWATER WITH A HIGH DIVERSITY OF MINERALS AND TRACE ELEMENTS
Minerals are involved in many metabolic pathways. This diversity of minerals allows for the development of as many different yeast species and beneficial bacteria as possible, benefiting microbiota strains of microorganisms with more specific nutritional needs.

LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT LYSATE
It is a probiotic-based complex that is obtained from the lysate of lactococcus lactis bacteria fermented under specific laboratory conditions.

It stimulates protein renewal and strengthens the skin's microbiota. This helps expel the layer of dead skin cells and significantly reinforces the barrier function of the epidermis.
It also has antimicrobial and defensive properties against environmental pollution and its harmful impact on the skin.

OTHER ACTIVE SUBSTANCES OF THIS RANGE

LIQUORICE (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) EXTRACT
Thanks to active ingredients such as glabridin and hispaglabridin, the liquorice promotes the disappearance of spots, especially in those areas with an outbreak of hyperpigmentation.

Due to its anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and emollient power it soothes irritated skin, inflammation and redness, making it useful for those who suffer from acne or have sensitive skin. It is also great to solve skin disorders such as eczema or psoriasis.

Liquorice extract also fights skin ageing thanks to its high content of antioxidants such as vitamin C, which counteracts the harmful effects of free radicals.

GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM SEED EXTRACT
It is the scientific name for Arabic cotton, a plant that comes from sub-Saharan Africa and Arabia. The hydrogenated oil from its seeds is pale yellow and contains high amounts of linoleic acid, vitamin E and antioxidants.
Cottonseed oil is quickly absorbed by the skin, and the linolenic acid it contains improves skin regeneration when incorporated into the skin's matrix.

BETA VULGARIS ROOT EXTRACT
Red beetroot, a widely available vegetable, is full of vitamins, proteins, sugar and betalain. Its green leaves, as well as the abovementioned components, also contain carotene that, together with betalain, has antioxidant and skin-protecting properties against UVA/UVB radiation.

ACMELLIA OLERACEA
Known as bio-botox, it is a plant rich in spinanthol, an active substance that can interact with the neurotransmitter responsible for muscle mobility, neutralizing the nerve impulse and thus minimizing wrinkles and expression lines.
It is also a great antioxidant that slows down the production of free radicals.

ALTHAEA ROSEA
Also known as marshmallow, it is a soothing ingredient capable of boosting the skin's immune system and keeping it free from irritations.

ARTEMISA
Known as Artemisia Vulgaris, it has soothing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive, irritated or imbalance-prone skins.

3 MOLECULAR WEIGHTS HYALURONIC ACID
It fills the skin's water deposits in all its layers and maintains them. The skin remains turgid, healthy and hydrated.

EDELWEISS
It contains leontopodic acid (leontopodium alpinum), known for its ability to protect plant DNA and, by extension, skin, against free radicals and sun damage. It prevents redness, so it is essential to avoid oxidation and the formation of free radicals that can damage skin cells and cause ageing and sagging.

PORPHYRIDIUM CRUENTUM (RED MICROALGAE)
It is an algae that, when threated by some external agents and/or changes in the natural environment that may pose a risk to its survival, can develop a protective film around the cell; thanks to this defence mechanism it has been able to survive for millions of years until now.
This interesting strategy has inspired FR~HAUT laboratories to use this power and apply this protective barrier to our skin: this way, we can mitigate the effects caused by external agents such as the passage of time.
Its similarity to glycosaminoglycans, typical of the skin, makes this an active ingredient that provides firmness and elasticity and combats sagging, wrinkles and expression lines. It also hydrates and minimizes trans-epidermal water loss.

NIACINAMIDE
Niacinamide is an active form of vitamin B3 or niacin.
Vitamin B3 is essential for the functioning of the body and good skin metabolism and is obtained through the diet. It is a necessary component for the activation of the coenzyme NAD, which is key in the synthesis of ATP (the energy molecule). NAD levels decrease with age, hence the importance of an extra intake.

Several studies have shown that the use of 4% and 5% topical niacinamide for 8 and 12 weeks can significantly improve the skin appearance.
A reduction in fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation, and an increase in skin elasticity and hydration have been observed.
NAD levels decrease with the passing of time and niacinamide works by preventing this decrease.

In addition, it suppresses the transfer of melanosomes (pigments) from melanocytes to epidermal cells (keratinocytes), thereby inhibiting skin pigmentation.

Niacinamide has been shown to increase collagen production, both in fibroblast cultures and in human skin. It also increases the production of lipids (oils) such as ceramides, free fatty acids and sphingolipids, which form the matrix of the epidermis and contribute to restoring the skin barrier.

Finally, it can stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes, which are essential cells for the maintenance of the structure and protective function of the epidermis, increasing healing processes and keeping the immune system in shape.

In summary, niacinamide is an ingredient well-tolerated by the skin with multiple properties:

• Protects against the damaging effect of the sun's ultraviolet rays, reducing photoageing or the development of skin cancer.
• Reduces wrinkles and increases skin elasticity.
• Reduces skin pigmentation: spots, melasma, redness, and acne scars.
• Helps regulate the activity of the sebaceous gland thanks to its anti-inflammatory and sebum-controlling capacity.
• Strengthens the immune system.
• Reverses cellular damages caused by solar radiation.